
Last week (mid March), I was told by a friend (we'll call him Randy) that there had been a newspaper article about community garden plot reservations being taken for our city on a first-come-first-served basis. My immediate gut reaction was that I had to get on that list as quickly as possible. My yard is heavily shaded by neighbors trees and not good at all for growing vegetables. I needed a garden.
The City Parks & Recreation department manages three community gardens in Beaverton, with about forty 15' x 15' individual plots in each. So, the following day Randy (who had jumped at the opportunity to join me in this venture) and I promptly went to the Parks & Recreation department to inquire. They allow reservations for either an individual or a family garden plot (the family garden plot is double the size of an individual plot, measuring 15' x 30'.) We chose the family-sized plot so we would have more room to work with. The seasonal rent per plot was $15 per plot, including water, so ours would cost $30 for the season.
We were informed that we were in luck, that a family-sized plot was the last available at a particular community garden that just happened to be the closest to both of our residences -- and within cycling distance. Our stake was confirmed and we paid our rent, were given a map of the community garden showing where our plot was located, a list of rules, and we left with huge smiles on our faces. We had a garden!
We immediately headed to the site to view our stake of land . We couldn't have been more fortunate -- our plot comprises the northeast corner of the community garden, meaning that we can grow trellised items on two sides of our plot (North and East) without blocking sunlight to other plots (one of the "no-no's" in the rules.)
Hmmm, -- the entire plot is covered by thick grass, which will have to be removed, and about 3 feet of the western part of our plot has apparently already been cultivated and planted by the owner of the plot adjacent to ours (encroachment! squatting! gasp!) We also note that if we are going to bring tools, compost, etc, that the parking area is about 50 yards away, which means carrying that stuff back and forth every day. "Oh, well", we reasoned, "we're committed and we'll just deal with everything. We have to make this work." Randy informed the Parks & Recreation department about the encroachment and they promised to resolve the situation for us right away.
Randy then told me about a buddy of his who had a rototiller that we could certainly borrow. I stopped him right there. I informed Randy that I would only tolerate biointensive, organic approaches in our garden, and definitely not machinery that required fossil fuels. I handed him John Jeavons book, and told him to read it from cover to cover. He looked morose. But Jeavons book is widely known as being the "bible" of biointensive gardening and offers the gardener great hope in terms of yields, lower insect problems, less need for watering, organic approaches, and most of all...success.
In the meantime, we sat down at the kitchen table and poured over publications I had downloaded on the internet from the local County Extension Service. We ultimately drew up this list of what we would grow; determined, first, by our taste and diet preferences ('cause that's how we are), and then ultimately on what the extension service recommended for this area, this year.
Corn
Pole Beans
Green/Red Peppers
Celery
Zucchini
Tomatoes
Cucumbers
Lettuce
Spinach
Cabbage
Radish
Carrots
Onions
Green Onions
Garlic
Strawberry
Blueberry
Broccoli
Potato
Basil
Rosemary
Cilantro
Parsley
Carnations
Daisy
Lavender
Nasturtium
Marigold
Calendula
Cosmos
The flowers are both for cut flowers and for insect control (as described in Jeavons book).
We then designed the garden layout based on recommendations from Jeavons book, using complimentary planting techniques -- essentially placing certain vegetables or flowers adjacent to others to inhibit bad insects and promote pollenization, etc. We're now determining which species of each plant we want (Walla Walla Sweet onions, anyone?) and devising a planting calendar based on extension service recommendations, and will definitely be "plantin' by the signs" as they say, meaning the phases of the moon, to ensure the sturdiest planting approach. Alas, some of our plantings will be purchased as "starts" (seedlings) over which we will have no control on seeding dates, but on the rest we will.
Today I was going to head out to the garden with my d-handled spade and spading fork to begin the double digging process. I've got to bring quite a lot of compost with me -- 37 cubic feet worth -- to spread over the area before digging starts. But alas it's raining pretty hard today and double digging in the mud is a bad idea -- isn't good for the soil -- so I decided to write this blog instead. Maybe tomorrow. I'm sure you can imagine how much I'm looking forward to manually double-digging 450 square feet!
There will be more to come. I'll add on to this blog as events develop. I hope you enjoy it.
Happy Easter!
P.S. OK, this blog will continue with comments below. This website posts the "most recent comment first" and then less recent comments, in reverse chronological order. So to read this blog in proper chronological order, you now should scroll down to the very bottom and work your way up. Happy reading.
Comments
May 13th, 2008
May 12th - Community Garden update
Whew! It's been quite awhile since I updated this blog and quite a bit has happened since my last entry. As you know, both Randy and I went out of town for about 10 days (a wedding) and weren't able to do anything in that time. If we had planted before leaving there would have been nobody to water the plants, and of course the double digging was just getting started.
After returning from the trip out of town we decided to get to business. Randy had planted a number of seeds at home to germinate during our absence, but sadly they didn't do so well. We didn't have a grow light and his solarium probably just wasn't warm enough or sunny enough to do the job. Only about a third of the seeds actually sprouted...for example the salad garden seeds -- but they sure don't look like lettuce starts to us, more like watercress. But the starts I had purchased were doing quite well and had grown substantially. We're going to revisit the seed planting issue in the near future because we've got a lot of seeds. But we didn't have a prepared bed in which to plant! Doh!
We had much more turf removal to do and the double-digging. So we got to work. As Randy continued to remove turf by hand, I started to double dig the areas uncovered. Organic compost at Home Depot was $3.98 a bag I bought 10 ($39.80). I spread about two inches of compost atop the bare soil prior to digging. Double digging is the process of loosening the soil to a two-foot depth -- no easy task I can tell you! It involves a spade and a spading fork...first loosening the soil in the first foot with the spade, and then loosening the soil in the second foot below with the spading fork. As I dug, the compost on the surface would sort of "avalanche" down into the soil mixture and kind of "naturally" mix with it. It was amazing what the double digging and compost did to the soil. We started with packed dirt (not hard-pan mind you but still kind of like clay) and ended up with fluffy soft and fresh-feeling, spongy soil that just broke apart real nicely. As the digging process unfolded, the soil bed rose up from the ground about three inches in height above what had existed before we removed the turf. One benefit of double digging is to incorporate a lot of compost and air into the soil, and it works. The lighter, composted soil retains water much better and allows easier root penetration. Once it is done, if you maintain your soil properly, the job is less than half the effort the following year (we're crossing our fingers.)
After a few days of two-hour double-digging sessions I needed more compost and Home Depot was completely out of stock without any more inventory expected for a week! So I went to a local super store and found the same stuff for $2 more per cubic foot (ouch!) I bought six bags for $35.88. This brought our double digging success to just about half of the garden, and 16 total bags. We were beginning to see the outlines of our planned beds. So Randy bought 6 more bags of compost and I kept digging ($35.88).
We now had some prepared beds ready to plant our 'starts'. So we transplanted tomatoes (12 plants) lettuce starts (about 20 plants -- we're going to have an awful lot of salad, all on one day -- groan), three melons (although Randy doesn't remember if he started two cantaloupes and a watermelon, or two watermelons and a cantaloupe), four pepper plants, five broccoli, the rosemary, two zucchini (I hate to think what their going to produce,) two slicing cucumbers, and fifteen hills of potatoes. Our strawberry crowns arrived and we just looked at them and decided to give up on them. They look like a handful of wet straw and we just don't know what to do with them. We also planted corn seed, pea pod bush seed, and snap pea bush seed. We have a bunch of onions to plant but no more prepared beds to plant in until I double-dig some more.
So off to the store to get more compost. I think it will take another two bags and I'll have the double digging licked. That's a total of 24 bags of compost and a compost bill of about $125 for 24 cubic feet of compost, to cover about two thirds of our total plot space. The rest of the plot consists of pathways, the areas with the weed cloth, and the large bed planted by our Bosnian neighbor which will be returned to us when she harvests (we trust!) It would have been nicer and cheaper to truck the compost in but a truck can't get to the community garden! -- it's 50 yards away from the parking lot...across a lawn...and everything has to be carried by hand!...including our tools, every day.
Randy is getting anxious because we haven't planted flowers yet ... and he's set on having lots of cut flowers -- for the bees, and for his table. So the rest of the double digging, planting of the onions, planting the flowers, and planting more seeds of corn and then pole beans is coming up next week. We'll start more starts from seed too, to see if we can get them to grow. After all, this is just the first season!
Whew...this gardening thing is initially hard work, expensive, and has given me a pretty sore back so far. But the beauty is that we're just about done with all the hard stuff (at least that's what we think.) Now we sit back, water, weed a little, plant more seeds, and watch it all grow. The biointensive planting method requires spacing of plants much closer together than normal, which creates a sort of micro-climate under the leaves of the plants. This is supposed to deter both weeds and insects. With any luck, we'll more than break even on our investment with a very bountiful harvest.
As I look at the garden today I see several planted beds, many with plants growing, and apparently thriving. We know that the soil will retain water better and the roots will penetrate easier thanks to our initial intensive efforts. It's rewarding. I'll get you a photo next week. I'm going to lay down now.
April 7th, 2008
April 7th - Community Garden Update
I'll bring you up to date. Last week we had beautiful weather for three days. Randy and I headed to the garden each afternoon and Donna joined us on the second day, each spending bout two hours per day on the garden. We dug up grass, and more grass, and more grass. We are cutting the soil into squares, pulling up the sod and shaking/scraping the good soil off the roots We throw the grass into a huge pile (eventually compost) and move on to the next square. Burdensome work! Slow! Frustrating. After three days we had removed grass from only about a quarter of the entire area.
But on the third day we also made an unfortunate discovery -- an old weed-barrier cloth running the full length of our plot and extending a full two feet into the plot. (Since it is a weed barrier, it won't let roots grow through it either. A proper vegetable garden needs at least four feet of soil depth to root properly.) It is buried under four to eight inches of soil all along its length. That means removing 30 cubic feet of soil to get access to this thing just to remove it. And guess what? Since no roots have penetrated it in at least thee years that we know of, and probably much longer, the soil underneath is pure clay...no roots have touched it in years to break it up. It will have to be heavily induced with amendments to produce anything this year. Admittedly, we are disappointed at this development, but it hasn't changed our resolve. We will redesign our planting plan to accommodate this lost space, and we'll work on the clay soil for either a later winter crop or something next year. The good news is that the majority of the remainder of the plot seems to have very healthy loamy soil.
Randy has ordered the peat pods for planting and has already begun starting seeds at home in some other peat pots he picked up at a local nursery. We also received several of the organic starts we had ordered -- tomatoes, peppers and rosemary. Still waiting on the strawberries, onions and potatoes. It has rained the last several days and the next break in the weather is expected in a couple of days. We'll remove the grass from the areas we need to plant first so I can double-dig those beds and Randy can start planting seeds and transplanting the starts as soon as possible. Then we'll focus on the balance of the grass removal while we wait for the seed starts at home to mature to the point they are ready to be transplanted (that gives us four to eight weeks.) We'll sow corn, peas, beans, spinach, potatoes, radish and carrots, directly in the garden soil. We'll immediately transplant the organic starts we received -- tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, rosemary and strawberry crowns. The rest we'll start at home and then transplant -- melons, cucumber, zucchini, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli and celery. Flowers will be seeded directly into the garden.
We've been discussing the complexity of staggering our seed starting and sowing timetable to assure we get staggered maturity dates for harvesting. Who needs 100 radishes, 80 carrots and 40 heads of lettuce ready to harvest all the same week? (We just don't eat that much salad at one time, ya know?) So figuring out on paper how long from seeding to harvest for each, and then working backwards so we have, say, half a dozen ears of corn mature each week, and maybe two heads of lettuce, four to eight carrots, a few onions and so on. And of course we are trying more than one variety of several vegetables so the seed-to-harvest timing is different for each and,....well,...it's complex. But we'll get it done. Remember! This is an experience! (experiment?!)
Finally, Randy is really being a trooper and reading the Jeavons book, putting up with my unwavering insistence that we follow the techniques in that book, and taking on the responsibilities of growing the starts, and taking the lead in transplanting and weeding. Donna has offered to help in several ways periodically throughout the growing season (as long as she isn't assigned specific responsibilities) and will be rewarded with a portion of the harvest. It's going to be great.
Later....
April 2nd, 2008
April 1st
OK. This is no April Fools Joke. I really went to the plot today to start the arduous task of removing the sod. Five minutes into it I thought to myself, "What the [bleep] was I thinking!?!?!" ...but continued on like the good trooper that I am. It took me two hours to clear about 1/10th of the entire plot, an area 12 feet long by 3 feet wide. Now this isn't the double-digging part mind you...this is just removing the sod so I can START the double-digging part. I was on my knees quite a lot and got to see the soil close up as I worked. It's full of earthworms and hummus! Yay! This is great news! The soil appears to be very rich and healthy, and our soil tests pretty much back up that observation. Now I need to learn about serious mud-stain removal from the knees of jeans -- something every mother out there ought to know...so clue me in, OK?
I also met the renter of the plot next to ours today. You may recall that our neighbor had encroached on our plot by just going ahead and planting a bed of onions on it. Well, today she came out to introduce herself, along with her granddaughter. She needed her granddaughter there to translate -- because she's a refugee from Sarajevo, Bosnia, that has been in America for just a few years and just "LOVE's Ahmed-i-cah!" Anyway, the reason she had planted on our plot is because nobody had gardened our plot for the past three years -- it has remained fallow (no wonder the sod has such well-developed, deep roots!). So, she just assumed it would continue to remain fallow and, no harm no foul, planted with the intent of trading produce with the new renter if there ever was one. So we bartered the "land for produce" deal and will be receiving strawberry's and other produce from her garden in exchange for the encroachment. A good time was had and we all ended up happy. It was great meeting her and I get the sense she has gardened for her family's food supply for decades. I might learn a thing or two from her either by watching, or by listening as her granddaughter translates. (Note to self -- learn a few words of the Yugoslav language.) Of course this necessarily changes our plot layout now. We had planned potatoes for that area, but it isn't a big deal, really. And now we won't need as many strawberry plants.
Randy, meanwhile, is managing the seed planting efforts to create seedlings at home that can be transplanted into the garden. A good portion of the seed order arrived in the mail today and we expect the rest before the end of the week. We discovered the Jiffy-7 product for planting our seeds ($3.65 for a 25-pack at Ace Hardware) -- it's cool, and way too easy. The Jiffy-7's (formerly known as "one-steps") are peat-pellet's, made from Canadian sphagnum peat moss and wood pulp which is then dehydrated and pressed into a pellet shape. All you do is line up a bunch of these pellets in a raised-edge tray (like a cookie tray for example), drop a seed or two onto the center of each pellet, and then add water to the tray. The pellets quickly absorb the water and expand to about an inch and a half high, and as they expand they envelop the seed(s) with about a quarter inch of damp peat mixture.
(This is a "before" and "after" picture.) The whole pellet is surrounded by a very thin gauze-like material that is biodegradable and expands with the expanding peat to create a basket of sorts to hold the pod of peat together -- no pots needed. Just keep adding water to the tray each day, the peat pods soak it up. When the seedling is ready to transplant, just pick up the whole pod and transplant it into a hole in the ground. Done. This also helps eliminate transplant shock because you aren't disturbing the roots at all. Great idea.
Of course there are several seeds we will plant directly into the garden without starting in the house, like corn and beans and carrots. We also need to plan staggering the seed germinations and seed plantings so we don't get like 30 heads of lettuce to mature the same week, ya know?
Back for more sod-removal again tomorrow. And I have Donna
coming to help! More later.
April 2nd, 2008
Re: April 1st
Those peat pellets work great, I used them a few years ago for tomato
plants and within a few weeks had great plants that were easy to move
outdoors.
Adam
plunsfo wrote:
>
> OK. This is no April Fools Joke. I really went to the plot today to
> start the arduous task of removing the sod. Five minutes into it I
> thought to myself, "What the [bleep] was I thinking!?!?!" ...but
> continued on like the good trooper that I am. It took me two hours to
> clear about 1/10th of the entire plot, an area 12 feet long by 3 feet
> wide. Now this isn't the double-digging part mind you...this is just
> /removing the sod/ so I can START the double-digging part. I was on my
> knees quite a lot and got to see the soil close up as I worked. It's
> full of earthworms and hummus! Yay! This is great news! The soil
> appears to be very rich and healthy, and our soil tests pretty much
> back up that observation. Now I need to learn about serious mud-stain
> removal from the knees of jeans -- something every mother out there
> ought to know...so clue me in, OK?
>
> I also met the renter of the plot next to ours today. You may recall
> that our neighbor had encroached on our plot by just going ahead and
> planting a bed of onions on it. Well, today she came out to introduce
> herself, along with her granddaughter. She needed her granddaughter
> there to translate -- because she's a refugee from Sarajevo, Bosnia,
> that has been in America for just a few years and just "LOVE's
> Ahmed-i-cah!" Anyway, the reason she had planted on our plot is
> because nobody had gardened our plot for the past three years -- it
> has remained fallow (no wonder the sod has such well-developed, deep
> roots!). So, she just assumed it would continue to remain fallow and,
> no harm no foul, planted with the intent of trading produce with the
> new renter if there ever was one. So we bartered the "land for
> produce" deal and will be receiving strawberry's and other produce
> from her garden in exchange for the encroachment. A good time was had
> and we all ended up happy. It was great meeting her and I get the
> sense she has gardened for her family's food supply for decades. I
> might learn a thing or two from her either by watching, or by
> listening as her granddaughter translates. (Note to self -- learn a
> few words of the Yugoslav language.) Of course this necessarily
> changes our plot layout now. We had planned potatoes for that area,
> but it isn't a big deal, really. And now we won't need as many
> strawberry plants.
>
> Randy, meanwhile, is managing the seed planting efforts to create
> seedlings at home that can be transplanted into the garden. A good
> portion of the seed order arrived in the mail today and we expect the
> rest before the end of the week. We discovered the Jiffy-7 product for
> planting our seeds ($3.65 for a 25-pack at Ace Hardware) -- it's cool,
> and way too easy. The Jiffy-7's (formerly known as "one-steps") are
> peat-pellet's, made from Canadian sphagnum peat moss and wood pulp
> which is then dehydrated and pressed into a pellet shape. All you do
> is line up a bunch of these pellets in a raised-edge tray (like a
> cookie tray for example), drop a seed or two onto the center of each
> pellet, and then add water to the tray. The pellets quickly absorb the
> water and expand to about an inch and a half high, and as they expand
> they envelop the seed(s) with about a quarter inch of damp peat
> mixture. (This is a "before" and "after" picture.) The whole pellet is
> surrounded by a very thin gauze-like material that is biodegradable
> and expands with the expanding peat to create a basket of sorts to
> hold the pod of peat together -- no pots needed. Just keep adding
> water to the tray each day, the peat pods soak it up. When the
> seedling is ready to transplant, just pick up the whole pod and
> transplant it into a hole in the ground. Done. This also helps
> eliminate transplant shock because you aren't disturbing the roots at
> all. Great idea.
>
> Of course there are several seeds we will plant directly into the
> garden without starting in the house, like corn and beans and carrots.
> We also need to plan staggering the seed germinations and seed
> plantings so we don't get like 30 heads of lettuce to mature the same
> week, ya know?
>
> Back for more sod-removal again tomorrow. And I have Donna coming to
> help! More later.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> To view this group on the web, visit The Washington County Peak Oil
> Home Page http://www.relocalize.net/groups/wcpo -->
> To Unsubscribe from this list visit your My Subscription page for the
> group http://www.relocalize.net/og/manage/6775 -->
March 30th, 2008
March 29th:
Today I ordered starts and certified potato seed. The previous order didn't include these items, just seed. I learned that if you try to use the potatoes from the grocery store as seed, they frequently don't work because grocery store potatoes are treated with some sort of spray (undoubtedly to extend shelf life) that retards sprouting and, so it goes, prevents them from sprouting in the garden as well. So one needs to buy "certified" seed.
I found the Natural Gardening Company, an outfit that sells certified organic seeds. I ordered potato seed, onion starts (including Walla Walla Sweets!), tomato starts, a couple of rosemary rhizomes, pepper starts, and strawberry starts. That ought to get us going! Total bill: $132. ouch!
Now we have a problem. Randy and I will be traveling sometime soon (yes, we bought carbon offsets for it) and we'll be gone for ten days. If we plant, who will water and tend our beds when we're gone? We're going to have to pray for rain! Worse, I've got to have the thing double-dug before we leave because the starts will be delivered before we leave and we'll have to plant them right away or they'll just die! Egads! The planning! The planning!
Luckily, the forecast is for drier weather this week. I just might be getting some excessive exercise and doing the "double-dig". (There ought to be a line dance with that name, don't you think?)
More later!
March 30th, 2008
March 25th:
Today I spent quite a lot of time staring at the garden plot attempting to "get to know it". I had originally planned to, again, begin the double-digging process but, alas, it had rained most of the day and the soil was too wet for that process. It will need to wait until a little later. But I've got my spade ($15) and my spading fork ($15) ready for the task.
I looked at the "lay of the land" and noticed that the plot slopes slightly toward the North -- not a lot -- but enough that as I double dig the plot I will focus on building up the North side a little bit and lower the South side a bit to level the garden some (this might help avoid rain runoff).
I had picked up a pH meter at Lowes ($13) which allowed a quick test of both pH and fertilizer levels. I sampled 15 areas of the plot to gauge the current pH and fertilizer values and recorded the readings on my planting plan. I was somewhat surprised to find fairly significant deviations in various areas of the plot. I attribute these differences to the different crops the previous gardener had planted, and their individual demands on soil nutrients. Luckily, none of the measurements was a pH higher than 7, or lower than 6.1. The Ideal soil pH for vegetable gardening is 6.0 to 7.5, so we have fairly decent pH to work with. I recorded the pH test results onto my planting plan so I could see how I needed to modify the different areas of the plot to best support the crops we plan to place in each area. The crops we have chosen all require soil in the 6.0-7.0 range, with the exception of potatoes and watermelon which prefer an acidic 4.5-6.0pH range. The gauge also showed a fertilizer quotient that was near the "ideal" range throughout the plot. Good!
Then I conducted an aggregate nutrient test that involves mixing soil samples from all areas of the plot together and then assessing levels of nitrogen, potassium, and potash for the aggregate. (Kit from Lowes - $3) The results said we needed nitrogen, but that the potassium and potash levels were very good. So there we are -- we now know what we need and the Extension Service recommends adding some of the nitrogen about three weeks after seeding or transplanting, just before rapid plant growth starts. So we'll add a little when we double dig, and then a little more as our plants start to take hold.
I hunted online for seeds. I checked the Extension Service website and found a list of vegetable seeds that were predicted to do well in our area this year. Each type of vegetable had anywhere from two to twenty different varieties listed as satisfactory in our area of the State. I then found the Victory Seed Company from Mollala, Oregon, on the internet, that grows and sells seeds which are all heirloom and guaranteed open-pollinated varieties. I then matched the varieties available against the list recommended by the Extension Service and found that Victory Seeds could provide about 80% of the seed varieties that we will need. I ordered their "sampler" sized packs of seeds which should provide sufficient quantities for the number of plantings we are planning in our 450 sq.ft. garden ($54).
Checking in with Randy I learned that he's been reading Jeavons book and had some questions about the double-digging process. We discussed the process and the benefits of double-digging versus rototilling, and then poured over the seed research I had done. One of the first things we noticed is that we are waaaay behind on starting a lot of our seedlings, based on the ideal planting times recommended by the Extension Service -- so we need to get to work. While waiting for the seed to arrive, we'll prepare our indoor planting operation.
More soon!
March 23rd, 2008
Congrats on the plot--
There is a 5-yr waiting list for my SE neighborhood garden. Since you want to start planting soon and smothering or solarization take time, are you going to hand-remove the grass? That'll take some time!
I recently learned of some mycorrhizal fungi-beneficial bacteria solutions for increasing soil biodynamism, available at fungiperfecti.com.
March 23rd, 2008
Grass could be an issue
I don't know what we're going to do about the grass. It's going to be quite a job to remove it. If we had secured the plot in the fall we could have turned it under to compost, but now there isn't enough time for the decomposition to take place before planting time.
One idea is to remove the top inch of sod and carry it away to the compost pile, but that removes a lot of the top soil. Suggestions are certainly welcome!
March 30th, 2008
The grass
You could dig up half the grass, including an inch or two of the soil, turn it over grass-side down on the other half of the garden. Plant nasturtium seeds into the soil on that half so it looks pretty and you can eat nasturtiums. The grass will then die (or so I've been told) and the soil will be ready a year from now for other vegetable and flower crops.
You will only be able to plant the other 1/2 of your garden this year, but that could be OK.